1973 Dodge Charger SE work log 2004

Work Log 2004


Sanded and painted passenger side mirror. Set timing. Adjusted carburetor idle mixture.


Installed Edelbrock shocks (rear). Installed pinion snubber. Installed anti-sway bar plates.


Re-installed Anti-sway bar plates using a nut as a spacer. Installed painted passenger side mirror.


Finished installing rear anti-sway bar. (This makes a BIG difference in how the car handles! It is like night and day. The body does not roll out when cornering anymore.) Tightened shackle brackets. Found out that the driver side mirror that I had been prepping for paint and installation had a broken bracket. Removed another driver side mirror from the donor driver side door from the ’74 Charger. Sanded driver side mirror. Color coated driver side mirror. Cleaned steering wheel from ’74 Charger. Cleaned replacement lens for rear passenger side.


Clear coated driver side mirror X2. Changed steering wheel to ’74 wheel. Adjusted passenger side mirror.


Wet sanded and polished driver side mirror.


Painted passenger side rear light housing with silver paint. Installed replacement lens for rear passenger side. Sprayed trunk rust with rust-treatment. Adjusted brake light switch. Cleaned and tightened grounds for rear lights in trunk.


Cleaned and re-attached ground leads for negative battery terminal to radiator support frame.


Sanded and polished passenger side mirror. Installed driver side mirror cable (and retainers). Installed carpet in trunk. Painted accents on passenger side rear light lens.


Started polishing the old distributor. I may put it back in the car. Set out new wire set to start making new wires and bought new plugs to put in the car. Champion #14.


Found the old fuel pump. I am planning on putting it back on the car. It will eliminate the horrible noise the electric pump makes. However, this could turn into a ‘few day’ job. Started cleaning up the old pump and worked on polishing the distributor some more.


Reset timing by “ear”. Now it seems to be timed correctly…yeah. No more missing and no more pinging.


Removed alternator and began cleaning it up. Removed fuel pump block off plate. Installed mechanical pump on block. Removed fuel pump because I was not sure the push rod was in place.


Re-installed mechanical fuel pump. Push rod is in place. Investigated using tubing and hose for fuel. Bent and painted 3/16” line for vacuum for heat controls. Disassembled pressure regulator. Got alternator to Steve at the Auto Electric Store for him to boost it up and replace bearings.


Bought Edelbrock air cleaner. Had to remove ” from the bottom throat area. Borrowed angle grinder from Sam across the street, which helped in the process. (I have got to get one of these!) Bent fuel feed line for front of motor. Started putting together the fuel ‘rail’ with the filter and pressure gauge. Replaced fuel pump bolts with 1 ” bolts instead of the 1” bolts that were holding it in place. Painted fuel line for front of motor. Placed 3/16” tube in area for the heater vacuum line. Bought new tubing bender (much better) and larger tubing cutter tool.


Started fabricating a ‘hard line’ for the PCV system. I will need more tubing. Bought more tubing, picked up alternator that I had sent for rebuild. ($75.00). Installed the lower feed line from the pump to the hard line for fuel. Installed hard line for the PCV system. Made a new line for the heater control vacuum. (The alternator now puts out 80 amps. Originally it was putting out 36 amps.)


Re-ran stainless steel line for fuel (to pump) so that it would reach the mechanical pump location. Discovered the passenger side floor will need replacement. The passenger side floor is rusted out from the leak in the front that used to leak into the car. Jim’s Auto Parts has a floor pan that I should be able to weld into place.


Removed rear part of fuel system. Put in a hose between the lines where the electric pump system came out. Gave the electric fuel pump to Sam across the street. They gave me a MIG welder to use, and eventually buy. The fuel system should now be complete. Removed the wire for the electric pump.


Changed 4 plugs on the passenger side of the engine. Remember to use Dielectric Grease on spark plug boots…especially on the second in from the rear on the passenger side.


Changed the remaining 4 spark plugs. Started making the new wires and put in the wire looms for the spark plug wires to run down the side of the engine. Wires for driver side are done along with new coil wire.


Finished running spark plug wires on passenger side. Added a couple spark plug wire protectors to keep the wires off the headers. (one on passenger side, one on driver side) Fabricated and painted a new spacer / sleeve for the alternator on the top-side between the mounting ears from a brake caliper slider sleeve. Installed and hooked up rebuilt alternator. Started car. Getting 8 lbs. Of pressure… Ordered fuel line parts from Jegs. Adjusted Idle speed to 1200-1400 RPM. Re-routed vacuum line for heater controls and removed braided sleeve from vacuum line.


Removed the wiring for the fog lights. Polished power steering fluid cap and clear coated it.


Removed and polished the voltage regulator. Reinstalled the voltage regulator.


Reassessed the fuel plumbing. Ordered more parts for fuel system from the fuel pump line to the carburetor. Fuel filter was defective and I ordered another one.


Finally received new fuel filter. Installed filter, connected lines and fittings together. Installed the ‘hard line’ to AN fitting on fuel line from fuel pump to top of engine. Regulator started leaking. Disassembled regulator and reassembled twice to fix leaking problem. New fuel pressure gauge took a dump. Reinstalled old one just to have something to adjust to. Readjusted the idle speed. I will need to readjust the idle mixture.


Started resetting idle mixture. I found out that the mechanical fuel pump would not ‘keep up’ with the demand of the engine. The pressure dropped to ‘0’ a few times. Holding the accelerator at 3000 RPM only lasted for about 30 seconds to 1 minute before dropping to 2000 RPM. Letting off the accelerator caused the engine to stall. I installed a ‘see through’ fuel filter and saw that the pump was not even able to fill of the filter. I will need to install an electric pump, again. I will need to re-examine the fuel delivery system and explore my options for a new pump.


Ordered a new Holley ‘Blue’ electric fuel pump. I will install this one on the frame and isolate it to keep down the noise.


Received Holley electric fuel pump from Jegs. Removed the right rear tire to gain access to the frame and the fuel line that runs along the frame on the rear of the Charger. I believe it will be best to connect the fuel pump to the existing line using stainless braided fuel line. That may be better than using hard line directly to the pump to help keep the pump from transmitting vibration down the entire length of the fuel line.


Cut out part of inner wheel well to accommodate the pump location. Mounting it 1” higher in the opening. Removed fittings from old pressure regulator. Cleaned up fittings and installed them onto new fuel pump. Cut stainless fuel line tubing in wheel well opening. Drilled holes in frame and mounted fuel pump to rear frame. Cut braided stainless hose to make a connection between the forward line and pump outlet. Soldered the new wire to the fuel pump. Paid Mark across the street, $50.00 for the MIG welder.


Finished putting the hoses on the fuel pump. Removed mechanical fuel pump. Installed fuel pump block-off plate. Ran braided hose from the pressure regulator to the fuel supply line. Ran wire from fuel pump to front of car. Removed passenger side rear brake drum and found pieces of the self-adjuster loose inside the drum. Put the parts back where they belonged however, I will need to change the brake shoes since the center support on one of the shoes is loose and I believe that is what caused the parts to come off the self-adjuster. Cleaned the wheel and put it back on the car. Tightened fuel lines to the carb and started car. Adjusted the fuel pressure to 5 lbs.


Removed rear passenger side wheel. Fixed back brake shoe on the passenger side by tack welding the shoe. Measured brake drum (10”). Finished running wires for fuel pump. Hooked up new switches for fuel pump and interior halo lights. Readjusted fuel pressure and idle mixture. Fabricated and installed new PCV line from chromed plumbing tube.


Tightened oil pressure fitting on engine. Took top off carburetor to check float levels and clean it out. Re-adjusted the fuel/air mixture. Reset the fuel pressure.


Got car inspected. Up on the lift, I noticed a few things that have been issues…one is the missing washer for the transmission mount cross member. Also inspected the fuel line and the proximity to heat sources, possibly causing vapor lock. And I will need to replace the brake hose on the passenger side.


Removed passenger side transmission mount cross member and fixed the bushing. I had to flip the busing over for it to work properly. I believe Steve Becker put it back in wrong. Sanded and stripped the upper fender support bars under the hood. Painted with color coat. Clear coated braces. Reinstalled braces.


Removed the right rear tire and rim in preparation for replacing and relocating the electric fuel pump. The pump is operating intermittently and I will replace it and rewire the connection for the pump.


Installed new Holley (Red) pump I bought from Behrents in Florida, NY. Rewired the power wire to the fuse panel. Pump seems to be working.


Charger is STILL experiencing the fuel pump shutting off. I am going to relocate the pump to the original location and attempt to isolate the pump better to keep down the noise.


Removed the new Holley Red fuel pump from the frame. Put in a steel line in place of the pump in the wheel well location. Removed the old fuel pump bracket from the shock mount. Installed the Holley Blue pump in that location with better isolation from noise. Still need to plumb and wire the pump. I will need to get a few 90 degree fittings for the pump since the outlet is so close to the driver side (left) shock mount.


Finished plumbing the Holley Blue pump into the car in the old location with new lines and hoses. Ran the car for about 10-15 minutes and the car shut off again…pump stopped running. The pump was VERY hot to the touch. After about 5 minutes, the pump ran again. I called Holley and spoke to one of the technicians there. He told me that the “pump HAD to be lower than the tank”. The technician also told me that the pump will not “Pull” fuel from the tank, it has to be a gravity feed. I found this to be a little odd, but I will go along with it. If I could place the pump that low, I would be scraping the pavement, so I will mount it as low as possible without hitting the leaf spring directly below the pump.


Drilled holes for fuel pump mount on frame near passenger side rear. Removed undercoating and welded on two 5/16” nuts to attach fuel pump mounting bolts. Painted the area to keep it from rusting.


Started bending aluminum tubing for tank to fuel pump section. This part needs to be hard line since it has to maintain it’s shape OVER the tailpipe.


Welded up the holes in the frame from the old pump mount. Ground them down smooth and painted the bare metal.


Unbolted fuel pump from center location and loosened clamps. Undercoated the areas of the frame that I had done welding work on.


Removed Holley Blue pump from under car. Mounted Holley Red pump to frame where I had welded in the nuts. Spent time to figure out how exactly to plumb the lines for the new fuel pump location.


Started running the wiring for the new pump location. Drilled frame and attached the ground wire to the frame. Finished the Aluminum supply line for the new pump location from the tank. I removed the original S.S. line and replaced it with this aluminum line that bent towards the new pump location. Made a S.S. flex line for the pressure side of the pump and attached it to the pump. Mounted the new ‘hard line’ to the frame and connected the supply line to the pump. Soldered the power lead to the new line. Re-mounted the vent line ‘tank’ to the underside of the car. (For some reason unknown to me…I guess for venting to the charcoal canister that was O.E. on these cars…there are 4 3/8” rubber hose lines coming out of the tank going to this little tiny tank). I had replaced the small sections of hoses a couple years ago because 2 out of the 4 were rotten, so they have all been replaced along with all new clamps.


Went to Behrents and bought the 6AN fitting that I needed and bought the 3/8” ferrules I needed from NAPA. Finished the fuel line plumbing and mounted the new hard line. Tied up the positive lead for the fuel pump and let the car down off the jack stands. Took the car out to the corner for gas then “around the block”. (about 4 miles round trip) The car is a little rough when cruising at slow speeds. I will have to look into that…


Took car out to Minisink Valley Central school (About 14 miles round trip). Seemed to be ‘okay’…But, still needs some ‘tweaking’ in the fuel and ignition. Washed and Waxed car.